We were in Takoradi Ghana for the day. This city of approximately a half million people seemed relatively prosperous. As is typical for this cruise journey, we were offered a tour to a Unesco World Heritage Site. I joined a group to visit a cocoa plantation. Recent experiences had left me a bit wary and cynical, but I am happy to say this experience proved totally different.
First of all there were no armed escorts at the pier. Our tour bus did pass the usual shanty town, but it seemed to be a relatively small area, compared to other places we visited. One turn onto a well maintained highway and the standard of living seemed to be at least average for this part of the world.
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We drove to a village about 1 hour outside the city. We were invited to the community center which seemed typical of others we had visited: open air with thatched roof. People brought plastic chairs from home for seating. A group of men with serious demeanor assembled at the front of the center and stood until another man in a bright red robe entered. Our interpreter explained that the latter man was the village leader. Next to him was another man who was his spokesman. Out of respect, only the spokesman speaks directly to the leader. While the entire event had a feeling of solemnity, you could also tell that all these men were close friends and were enjoying their part in the show. Through his spokesman and our interpreter, the chief spoke a warm and friendly welcome. A representative from our cruise ship presented the chief with two packages, each containing a fifth of peppermint schnapps, as a sign of our appreciation. More speeches and the spokesman opened one bottle of schnapps and proceeded to pour at least a third of the content on the floor while the chief recited a long prayer. Then the spokesman opened the second bottle and was in the process of repeating the ritual, when one of the village men in the back jumped up; said a loud “Amen!”; and confiscated the open bottle. Everyone had a good laugh.
There were mainly men and a few older women and small children at this welcoming ceremony. The chief apologized and explained that the older children were in school which was about a half mile down the road. This was market day and most of the women were at the regional market, buying and selling for their households. A group of the men walked with us down a well paved road to the cocoa plantation. I was expecting neat symmetrical rows of cultivated cocoa plants, whatever cocoa plants were. Instead we climbed up a steep embankment of what looked like forest. There were cocoa trees of various sizes seemingly planted in a random pattern, along with other apparently wild plants and a dense mat of vegetation on the ground.
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- Cocoa trees 2. Immature pods grow directly on tree trucks 3. A mature pod 3, Opening a pod with a machete 4. Fresh wet cocoa beans
We came back to the village to see the harvested beans drying in the sun. The village leaders graciously served us drinks of their local fermented brew and thanked us for coming. The headman wished us safe travels. He very tactfully added that the village had 3 community projects they needed help with. First they wanted to improve the the outdoor bathroom facilities of the local school. We had passed this large active school with more than 100 pupils, on our walk to the cocoa plantation. Primary and secondary students, in their crisp uniforms, were as orderly and playful as students anywhere. He also said they needed to bore an additional well in the village. He pointed to construction materials in nearby piles indicating that these were active projects. Finally he said the community center could use a new roof. Indeed if one looked up, the glint of sunlight was evident through the ceiling. Without communicating any sense of entitlement or obligation, he said if we wished to help in any way, the village would be very appreciative. We gave freely. These were happy hard working people who shared a glimpse of their daily life with us.
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Linda